Okay, our previous post from the Garmouth was a bit heavy on the historical side so this time we thought we would come here to The Royal Oak in Cullen. Not for the history of Cullen, no, we came for its soup … and scones, of course. Anyone who departs this earth without having tried Cullen Skink hasn’t really lived at all. It’s made from smoked haddock, onions, potatoes and milk … food of the Gods! And, the only thing better than trying a bowl of Cullen Skink is trying it in Cullen itself, where it actually comes from. Hence we are here at the Royal Oak, only a few yards from the beach.
We had heard that there were several cafe’s in this little fishing village but for some reason we couldn’t find them and eventually ended up here. With a population of just over 1000, it’s hardly enough to support a thriving cafe culture.
Obligations?
Elizabeth de Burgh, Robert the Bruce’s wife fell off her horse and died here while visiting Cullen Castle in 1327. The locals removed her organs and buried them in the local church yard. Then they sent the rest of her to Dunfermline Abbey, the official burial place of Scottish Kings and Queens. Bruce was so grateful to the town for its treatment of his wife that he arranged for an annual payment to be made to the village. Obviously, expectations of how the dead were dealt with were different back in the day. In 2000 the government tried to stop the payment but a court case found in the villages favour. The princely sum of £5 per annum is still being paid every year. Okay, okay, it was a small fortune in 1327 and there’s a principle involved!
Oatcakes
Enough history, what about the skink we hear you cry! When we arrived we asked if the Royal Oak had the best skink in Cullen? 
The look we got said “obviously!”. They are a friendly bunch here and they soon had us sorted with a nice bowl of the ambrosia complete with some oatcakes. It was only me, Pat is not a skink appreciator! It was excellent and the oatcakes were a perfect accompaniment. Having said that I don’t think it was any better than the skink Pat makes for me at home … just need her to get some oatcakes.
Afterwards, we discovered that the World Cullen Skink Champions were Buth Bheag’s Fisherman’s Kitchen, Kyle of Lochalsh. Nowhere near here Cullen!
After the Cullen Skink it was the turn of the Cullen scones. They were nice but we were a little disappointed to find that, this far north, they felt they had to get their cream from Cornwall. We had a really nice time at the Royal Oak and for me it was a box ticked … Cullen Skink actually in Cullen. No topscone, but hey, you can’t have everything!
Backbones
Meanwhile, rudderless Britain is suffering a major energy and cost of living crisis. Boris Johnson is still Prime Minister but on holiday! in spite of much cajoling he has declined to intervene. David Cameron did a similar disappearing trick as soon as he realised what a mess Brexit was. David and Boris were in the same class at Eton … presumably they were both off the day they handed out backbones.
Still no sign of that promised bottle of whisky …. time is running out!
AB56 4SD. tel: 01542 842762 Royal Oak
///farm.reverted.mandates
The Rpyal Oak was a lovely place and my lentil and ham soup was a real stick to the ribs dish. Pity they didn’t have good Scottish cream to go with the scone though.
A Fabulous Post. I can’t recall ever being in Cullen but this will have to change soon. However, for many years I have always enjoyed oatcakes with any kind of soup. It goes way back to when my Granny used to make her own oatcakes in her fireside oven.
Regarding our current Prime Minister, I see that yet again he has been forced to return from holiday at a critical time for the country. I refuse to join the cult image and now try not to refer to him by his first name. I rather liked a recent categorisation I read of Johnson as “Less a caretaker Prime Minister and more a chilled out entertainer.”
Oatcakes, oatcakes, oatcakes. They gave me my first sense of responsibility. Mum used to make triangular oatcakes that she would prop up against a log in front of the fire and leave them for me to watch so that they didn’t burn. Do you know how many distractions there are for a 5 or 6 year old? Anyway we had to eat them burnt of not.
As far as the Prime Minister is concerned, you are right Sandy. Think he might be on at the Fringe!