Tag Archives: Vikings

Busta House Hotel

After an overnight ferry crossing, here we are in Shetland. We have long promised ourselves a visit but things have always got in the way. Not this time though, we are here … yeah! We will be staying in Lerwick, the capital, but a booking for tea and scones at Busta House Hotel meant that we couldn’t hang around there long. We had to get to the town of Brae and it was a wee bit away.

External view of Busta House HotelShetland has had the worst snow it has experienced in over twenty years. Normally the Gulf Stream protects it from such weather. As we drove to Brae it was obvious just how bad it had been. There were remnants everywhere and by the side of the road the snow was still quite deep in places. We were happy to have missed the worst of it.

Inheritance

Builder of Busta HouseThomas Gifford, Shetland’s wealthiest resident built Busta House in 1748. He had 14 children, including 4 sons. Unfortunately all were lost when they set off by boat to visit friends on the other side of the bay. It was a fine May evening, the boat was found undamaged with all their belongings but they had all vanished. A long running legal battle over inheritance that lasted 93 years eventually bankrupted the entire family.

Internal view of Busta House Hotel
the Long Room. The large cupboard on the left houses a huge selection of whiskies

In 1960 Queen Elizabeth II took tea in the Long Room where we are today. Since her visit they have, no doubt, been eagerly awaiting ours.

A scone at Busta House HotelAfter a very warm welcome we were soon settled in a large window seat to await our scones. They came beautifully presented with everything needed in the way of butter, jam and cream. The scone was warm and just the way we like them. The first topscone we’ve had in ages … hurrah! As we sat there, however, thinking how fantastic it was to be here we became aware of what sounded like a right old rumpus happening  outside.

500 sheep
Viking invasion at Busta House Hotel
Invading Vikings and Duane, the Jarl

Actually it was not so much a rumpus more a full scale invasion … an invasion of Vikings! We were aware of Brae holding the final Up Helly Aa of the season but we didn’t expect this! The hotel is pretty much in the middle of nowhere so where had they all come from? Anyway they were all given a dram and this seemed to completely nullify any raping and pillaging tendencies. They were the friendliest, happiest bunch of people you could ever hope to meet. Pat met Jimmy Johnston. who had asked if he could have his picture taken with her??  Then tried to impress her by pointing to the massive shed on the hill that had 500 of his wintering sheep in it. He also seemed to own most of the land round about the hotel. Yes, she was impressed but probably more by the warmth of his company … he was brilliant!

Vikings
A fierce Viking, a trainee Viking and Pat with her pet Viking, Jimmy Johnstone

They brought their own music and there was much singing and dancing! Magic!

Later we went to the Galley shed in Brae where they had prepared a galley for Up Helly Aa.The Galley and the torches

The Galley Shed

There Pat met Eddie Thompson who couldn’t do enough for us. In 1995 he had been a Jarl (chieftain) himself.

Pat with Eddie Thompson
Eddie with Pat and Eddie as the much feared Ivar The Boneless in 1995

He showed us round the Galley Shed and even took us to the store where all of the 400 torches were waiting to be collected. There was an almost overpowering smell of paraffin so no naked lights here!

Logo of Frankie's fish and chip shopHe advised us that if we wanted anything to eat we should walk along to Frankies because it would be closing soon. Frankie’s has won Best Fish and Chip Shop in the World and we can understand why. Probably the best fish supper we have ever had! With full tummies we returned to the Galley Shed where Eddie made us some very welcome coffees. What a guy! Everyone is so friendly up here! And then it all started!

The start of the Delting Up Helly Aa
Spectators watch lighting the torches

 

Start of the Delting Up Helly Aa procession
Perfect day

We were blown away by the the sheer happiness of this event. The whole community had made huge efforts to ensure its success. We asked Eddie if Health & Safety ever got involved. He said they didn’t but that everyone knew that the slightest mishap could result in 400 years of history being lost. Everyone was very careful. The procession made its way around to the other side of the bay where the galley was launched into the sea and all the torches were thrown into it while it drifted away. Quite a spectacle! Perfect day, a topscone, new friends and an Up Helly Aa! And we’ve only just arrived!

The Delting Up Helly Aa
Across the bay, the procession arrives at the launch point for the galley

Today, Boris Johnson is trying to justify himself to the House of Commons. He along with his Tory party have proved over recent years that all that’s required to be Prime Minister of the UK is a pulse. Wonder what our Vikings would make of him? Think we know!

ZE2 9QN       tel: 01806 522 506     Busta House

///zones.denoting.collision

Skillingsboller

2020 wasn’t exactly a year to remember what with plague ravaging the country and mad politicians reaching new levels of lunacy. These things are mere trifles, however, when we tell you that the government has now told us to cease all sconological research forthwith! Sacre bleu! Okay, they didn’t actually get in touch with us specifically and tell us to desist  but they may as well.  Current COVID restrictions mean that we are not supposed to leave home except to care for others. We thought sconology fitted that brief perfectly but apparently, it doesn’t!  So, in order to further your knowledge and broaden your cultural horizons we bring you skillingsboller … a sort of Norwegian scone equivalent.

Happy New Year

But first we would like to wish a happy new year to all our readers and correspondents, we hope that 2021 is much better than the past year. 2020 was memorable for having absolutely nothing whatsoever to commend it. A complete disaster. It did, however, serve to demonstrate the difference between the EU and the UK.

The ‘U’ stands for ‘Unity’ in both their names but the five years of negotiations combined with coronavirus have had opposite effects in both states. On one hand the 27 countries of the EU showing admirable unity with a show of democracy in action. On the other hand the totally undemocratic UK falling apart at the seams with it’s ‘Unity’ under unprecedented strain.  All seventeen of the most recent opinion polls showing a clear majority in favour of Scottish independence and N.Ireland, is now left  closer to Dublin than London. Even England’s long-standing bedfellow, Wales, is getting fed up up with the Boris shambles and Westminster’s inane dictatorial style. And lo-and-behold, on top of all that we now have part of the Tory party launching a campaign to rejoin the EU. Aaargh! As messes go, this is pretty messy.

Coffee and boller

Enough of all that! Thanks to a Viking son-in-law we used to spend a lot of time in Norway. Being there was fantastic but of course there were no scones. They did however have boller (pronounced ‘bolly’) which are to Norwegians what croissants are to the French or scones are to the Brits. They are made with cardamon spice and can often have raisins or even chocolate chips in them. Absolutely delicious. We became addicted and ‘coffee and boller’ quickly became part of the daily routine.

On this occasion, being at home without access to boller or scones of any kind, we decided to make skillingsboller. It’s a derivative of boller,  a kind of cinnamon bun. Obviously you need a recipe but you also need the help of one big Viking and two small ones. This may be a problem for most folks but not for us … because we are blessed with all three!

rolling out the boller mixture

Don’t make skillingsoller if you are in a hurry. It’s not something you can rush. It takes 2-3 hours at least. But then, why would you be in a rush when you can’t even leave home? Get baking! Be warned though, if you decide to utilise the two small Vikings it can take even longer. Particularly at the icing stage!

Suffice to say that the resulting skillingsboller was absolutely delicious, a major triumph for all concerned.

What do you want?

Emboldened by success our Vikings then went on to make normal boller. holemade Norwegian bollerDon’t they look delish! If you can’t be bothered making them you can always visit United Bakeries in Oslo. There, you will find lots of boller of all kinds and a huge bowl of strawberry jam that you just help yourself to. Ah, memories! Boller is not a scone but if 2020 taught us anything it was that sometimes we can’t have everything we want. Hopefully in the not too distant future we will all have the ability to travel again and get what we want, what we really really want … sorry! Until then stay safe  wherever you are!

The Bay Hotel

What a guy, what a hero, what a romantic! He had just seen off the Vikings at the Battle of Largs. Now, here he was riding from Edinburgh to Kinghorn on a dark stormy night to be with his wife on her birthday the following day. The Milk Tray Man would have been proud.

King Alexander III monument near the Bay Hotel at Pettycur Bay
The Alexander III monument near Kinghorn where he died on 18 March 1286

Birthday celebrations

It was not to be, however. His horse fell and he was found dead on the shore the following morning. Alexander III, the last Celtic King of Scots had been advised that the ride from Edinburgh was too dangerous. But would he listen? All Alexander’s three children died young so he left no heirs. The period of instability that followed would eventually lead to war with England. Oh no, not again! When Alexander died Queen Yolande was left waiting in Kinghorn having a memorable birthday for all the wrong reasons. Out of respect for her husband she would not have been sampling scones here at the Bay Hotel. We were however! Not out of disrespect you understand, just plain necessity!The terrace at the Bay Hotel at Pettycur Bay

Cream teas

After an exhilarating walk through the rocks and along the sand dodging plummeting witches (more of that later), we were in need of refreshment. A scone at the Bay Hotel at Pettycur BayWe had spotted the Bay Hotel from the beach so we made our way there. It’s a strange kind of place. Probably set up to  cater for the huge caravan park that surrounds it. It has a leisure centre with a beautiful swimming pool but we were only looking for one thing … and it wasn’t a swim.

A fruit scone was no problem but when we inquired about cream they asked if we would prefer a cream tea . A cream tea it was. The terrace looking over the river towards Edinburgh on the far shore was very tempting. However, lovely day as it was, still the middle of January so we opted for inside. Interior view of the Bay Hotel at Pettycur BayThe restaurant was obviously designed to cater for a multitude rather than just us and one or two others. A little bit soulless. Although not a topscone we thoroughly enjoyed it. We should have sat outside though … the Vikings would have!

Suffice to say that we had a much more enjoyable day in Kinghorn than Queen Yolande.

New profession

We came to Kinghorn for a walk along the beach at Pettycur. It’s all rather beautiful, especially on a day like today. However, we were not that far from the Clock Tower Café in Pittenweem where attentive readers will remember the fate of poor Janet Cornfoot. Yes, this is that part of Scotland where, at one time,  all women must have lived in fear of their lives. Hard to imagine that this little town gave rise to a brand new profession  … witch-pricking! The holders of these witch-pricking jobs, usually the local clergy, were responsible for inserting long wires into alleged witches in search of pain sensitivity and the presence of blood?? They were also responsible for interpreting the results. Let’s hazard a guess. If they found no blood and no sensitivity to pain, that would indeed have been a witch. Probably didn’t work like that though.
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View towards Edinburgh from the Bay Hotel at Pettycur Bay
Vie from the Bay … Arthur’s Seat in the middle distance

Kinghorn was a centre for witchcraft trials so most of the skilled witch-prickers were based there. As we walked along the beach we could look up at the ring inserted in the cliff face to which witches were chained and burned. If leniency was being shown they were only half burned before being thrown to their deaths while still chained to the ring. The sudden stop snapped them in half.

The logo of the Bay Hotel at Pettycur BayMany of these witches were accused of meeting with the Devil and, in most of those allegations, the Devil was disguised as a man. Goodness, surely not? Anyway, in 1644, Katherine Wallenge was the last poor woman to be treated in this vile manner.  Consequently, all witch-prickers became redundant. Except? No it couldn’t be! We wonder if a modern form of witch-pricking has been resurrected in Westminster.

Return of the witch-prickers

Theresa May must feel a bit like Katherine Wallenge with all her colleagues sticking it to her. However, when it comes to Brexit, Theresa’s mantra that only her deal can deliver the Brexit that ‘the people’ voted for overlooks one vital fact. The people didn’t vote for some highfalutin deal with the satanic EU. Based on the garbage they had been fed by the politicians and media they just wanted OUT… simple! So unless she delivers a hard Brexit she will have failed to deliver what ‘the people’ voted for. “Stop all this silly bickering and get on with it” is what they would say. Of course it would result in the biggest act of self-harm in recorded history. Not exactly sure how they would measure it but we can almost see the Guinness Book of Records folk gathering surreptitiously in the background.

KY3 9YE      tel: 01592 892222          The Bay

Telephone news

You’ll never guess what we found round the back of the Bay Hotel. Please don’t ask why we were round there. Yes, you’re right, a K8 telephone box. The K7, like the K5 never made it into production so the K6 which we all know and love was followed, in 1968, by the K8. Made entirely of cast iron, about 11,000 were produced. Now there are only 54 registered as still in existence. Wonder if this one is registered? It was in bad shape but was still proudly wearing the Lion Foundry badge. Okay, okay, we really do need to get a life. K8 telephone box to the rear of the Bay Hotel at Pettycur BayWhile we are on the subject The Pedant has kindly sent a photo of a fully functioning K6 in Stow-on-the-Wold. Made in Falkirk … yeagh, quality!K6 telephone box in Stow in the Wold