Tag Archives: Robert Louis Stevenson

Ordinary, Scones

Coorie

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A lot has happened since our last post from Gleneagles. We suppose the biggest news is that Boris has gone … though he is still here? He’s resigned but is still Prime Minister. Don’t worry if you don’t understand, confusion is a kind of Boris speciality. He’ll be absolutely gone soon but not before he has given out honours to all his equally inept buddies. We shouldn’t be thinking about this here in Coorie on a lovely day in beautiful Limekilns View of Limekilnsbut it’s almost impossible to ignore. His long overdue departure would be cause for much merriment and dancing in the streets if it wasn’t for the fact that all the contenders to replace him are equally inadequate. We could easily have a situation where the country ends up being run by someone 95% of the public have never heard of.  That’s democracy, UKstyle.Street in Limekilns

Scorchio

The other big news is that Scotland has become subtropical with temperatures today in Limekilns topping 32C. The government has told us that if we dare to venture out between the hours of 11 and 3 we will probably die a painful shrivelled up death. Turns out the UK is not prepared for anything. It’s either too cold, too hot, too dry or too wet. Whatever it is, prices always have to go up because of it … or is that just too cynical? However, it does make us wonder how other countries, where temperatures like this are perfectly normal, manage. 

Internal view of Coories, LimekilnsAnyway, we only had a brief walk from our lovely cool air conditioned car and were quite happy to be ushered towards a table in the nether regions of Coorie, as far away from the windows as possible. Only a few brave souls were sitting outside melting.

The Art of Coorie

 As it happens, this place is almost next door to the Sundial Cafe we reviewed back in 2018.

A sign in Coories
No problem with any of these and I am the best at staying humble

Then we told you that Limekilns featured in Robert Louis Stevenson’s book Kidnapped. He chose the village as the point of escape for Alan Breck and David Balfour when they were being pursued by dastardly redcoats. Exciting stuff. but back to today. The word Coorie derives from Gaelic and means to snuggle. Its kind of onomatopoeic .. it sounds warm and snuggly. A recent book called ‘The Art of Coorie‘ teaches us to enjoy life the Scottish way through simple pleasures. That’s certainly the feeling we got here. Nothing particularly fancy or ostentatious … just a warm welcome, good food and cheery service. What more could you ask for? 

Magnets

We ordered some lunch and a fruit scone to share. A scone at Coories, LimekilnsThe lunch was perfect and so would our scone have been had there been cream … but no cream! Not to worry we thoroughly enjoyed what we had … loads of fruit and the strawberry jam was great.

Afterwards we took a wee walk along the beach but it wasn’t long before the air conditioned car was acting like a very powerful magnet. We returned home via Port Edgar where we watched loads of kids being taught kitesurfing and paddle boarding … great day for it.

Forth Road and Rail bridge
The Forth Road Bridge from Port Edgar. Built in 1958 it is currently closed. The rail Bridge in the distance was built in 1889 and is still going strong

Great day for us as well. Coorie by the Coast was really enjoyable. It’s only been going a couple of years but it seems to be getting things right. We wonder if we will be able to say the same of the next incumbent in 10 Downing Street … probably not! Someone new to complain about! And we shouldn’t really complain about the weather!

Queensferry Crossing from Port Edgar
The Queensferry Crossing looking towards Limekilns

KY11 3HL     tel: 01383 872999        Coorie by the Coast

///stocked.fruits.socket

 

 

Ordinary, Scones

Westerton Arms

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When Robert Louis Stevenson wrote “Treasure Island” he may have been thinking of the place we are in today. He certainly was when he wrote “Memoirs of an Islet” and the poem “A Good Boy”. We know this because his ill health meant he spent much of his childhood years in this small spa town. Later when he was living in Hyères in the South of France he wrote “I shall never forget the days at Bridge of Allan; they were one golden dream”. Yes, we are in Bridge of Allan, not to take the waters but rather the scones at the Westerton Arms.

Footballers

How times have changed! Seems odd nowadays to think that, in Victorian times, whole towns grew up around a spring. There was nothing particularly special about the water apart from the fact that it was clean; something we now simply take for granted. Wealthy Victorians would flock to these  towns for their health benefits. You can see echoes of this past everywhere in Bridge of Allan. Lots of green spaces and grand mansion houses that, nowadays, are largely the preserve of obscenely overpaid footballers. By the way, if you look to the left of the title picture, you can see the Paterson Memorial clock … nothing to do with us! The Paterson in question was a local doctor who served the local community for many years.Internal view of the Western Arms

The Westerton Arms began life in 1831, almost twenty years before Stevenson was born. He, like us, may well have come here for a scone? Although almost 170 years old it is surprisingly fresh and modern inside and would appear to be undergoing still more refurbishment. The staff were very welcoming and soon had us kitted out with some excellent lunch.

Reasons to go to Samoa?

Henry's Coffee Co coffee cupThey brought our coffee while we waited for our scones and lo-and-behold it was our favourite from Henry’s Coffee Company. It doesn’t get much better than this so things were looking very promising.  Unfortunately, it didn’t continue. A scone at the Western ArmsThe scones (£2.95 each) were decidedly average and served with American jam and French butter … quelle dommage! The scone itself was a fairly lifeless affair. When we expressed our disappointment we were told that all the other cakes were made in their own kitchen but they didn’t know where the scones came from?? Maybe this is why Robert Louis Stevenson left Scotland and ended up in Samoa?

Holding your breath

The Pope, on his recent visit to Greece, has scolded almost all western leaders over their treatment of immigrants. Likewise Tony Blair has been scolding the same leaders over their handling of the coronavirus pandemic. Neither Tony or Francis have the power to do anything about anything so it’s easy for them to go off on one! Will their words  effect any change? Don’t hold your breath!

FK9 4HR        tel: 01786 200545.      Westerton Arms  

///honest.tucked.boots

ps: The next day we got a lovely surprise when one of our neighbours popped in with some scones. If only the scones the day before had been as good as these they would have been topscones.Ann Style's scone

Ordinary, Scones

Sundial Café

Kidnapped by Robert Louis StevensonIn 1752 the redcoats were in hot persuit. When Robert Louis Stevenson was writing Kidnapped he chose Limekilns as the final point of escape for David Balfour and Alan Breck. An odd choice when you look at the sleepy little village today, however, it wasn’t always like this.

Publican’s daughters

Its sheltered natural harbour meant that it once had a thriving fishing industry. As its name suggests, burning lime was another. However, in the 18th century, the harbour also served as the northern terminus for a ferry service from Bo’ness on the opposite shore. Maybe that’s why Stevenson chose this place? Anyway, Alison Hastie, the local innkeeper’s daughter rowed them across and the two young fugitives successfully escaped … hurrah! Nowadays, of course, they could just have walked across the river using any one of three bridges. Okay, you are not supposed to walk on the rail bridge but if you were fleeing for your life??

The sundial at the Sundial Cafe in Limekilns
Sundial dated 1689

We got here by using the new Queensferry Crossing. Without expansion joints it’s a very smooth drive but how have they done that? Where does the expansion go? Having arrived in Fife we decided to take the more indirect but picturesque coastal route on the north side of the Forth. Limekilns is one of the first villages you come across. It’s home to the Sundial Café.

Cheese and bacon

Unsurprisingly it gets its name from the sundial high up on the corner of the building. In Scotland, these things are only of use on the rare occasions when the sun actually shines. Presumably when this one was installed there were not that many alternatives. Inside, on the ground floor, it is small and cosy with a large log burning stove. There is also a fairly large seating area upstairs. It’s pretty obvious

Internal view of the Sundial Café in Limekilns
Upstairs and downstairs in the Sundial

that the renovation of the 400 year old building has been done very sympathetically. When we arrived mid afternoon they only had two scones left, one fruit and the other cheese and bacon. We decide to have them both and share, half each. What are we like?A scone at the Sundial Café in Limekilns

They were very good – the fruit one came with plenty of jam but they didn’t have any cream … boo! No topscone but a lovely place with friendly people … highly recommended.

Liabilities

In 1362 King David II, as kings do, gave Limekilns harbour to the monks of Dunfermline Abbey  to encourage trade with Europe. Oh, with the shambles that is Brexit, for that sort of initiative these days!  Shock horror! As we sit gazing out towards the North Sea, BP has announced that it is to double its North Sea oil production. They will also keep extracting for the next forty years. In 2014 it was explained what a liability the dribble of oil that was left was for Scotland. So now that liability has just got a whole lot bigger. Thanks Westminster, what would we do without you? If Scotland ever gets its independence the maritime border with England, surreptitiously redrawn in 1999 to run just off Aberdeen will have to be extended yet again to take in all the oilfields around Shetland. What fun!

KY11 3HN     tel: 01383 873370      Sundial Café TA

ps something for all our telephone box enthusiasts, not a K2 or a K6 or even made of iron. A wooden Post Office telephone box from the 1930sOne of our wonderful correspondents has just sent this picture of a wooden telephone box taken at the National Museum of Scotland. According to the information it is dated 1930s and is from the Hope Street Post Office in Edinburgh. Apparently a lot of post offices provided these payphones for customers when few people had telephones at home. Things have changed since then. Thank goodness for social media, otherwise how else would we know that Scotland’s thirteen Tory MPs had voted to remove powers from the Scottish Parliament?

Ordinary, Scones

The Hideaway Café

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Hide and Seek

We often stop off in Bridge of Allan as we go to and from the north … for the size of the place it has a lot to offer. For me the reason for stopping is Woodwinters Wine & Whiskies, one of the best off-licences I know. The excellent Allanwater Tinpot Brewery/Pub is also good. Pat, on the other hand, likes several of the fashion shops. It was one of these fashion shops, Ruby Tuesday, that led us to this place, the Hideaway Café. It is tucked away at the end of a mews that runs down the side of the shop. We thought we knew Bridge of Allan quite well but had no idea this place existed. It is aptly named but well worth finding. It has a much more relaxed ‘coffee shop’ vibe than our usual Bridge of Allan haunts, Jamjar and Café 33.

hideaway-01Everything on the menu , including the scones, is freshly prepared every morning. It also has an outside area with a playhouse for the kiddies. A surefire blessing for all the mums of Bridge of Allan. It was unfortunate that we arrived at the end of the day. There was only a single lonesome fruit scone left so we decided to share and put it out of it’s misery. hideaway-03Perhaps it was because it was the last  one that it caused us some difficulty. It was very very good, nice jam and cream, but we felt it lacked a certain freshness. Had we been earlier in the day it would definitely have achieved a topscone. Next time we will get there earlier and not spend so much time and money in Ruby Tuesday!!

Bridges and Jacobites

Bridge of Allan, like most spa towns is ‘nice’. Robert Louis Stevenson visited every year in his youth. But it was not always so genteel. It got it’s name in 1520 when a narrow stone bridge was built to replace the old ford across the River Allan. Soon after that it became a sort of ‘klondyke’ town when copper, gold and silver mines were established nearby and by 1745 the bridge had been commandeered by a group of Jacobites who charged a toll to cross. Most famously of all, of course, in January 1963 the Beatles played the Museum Hall, now converted into luxury flats. At that time, even the Beatles themselves had little inkling of what lay in store for them. A bit like the Labour party at their recent annual conference in Liverpool. hideaway-02

Shooting yourself in the foot

In spite of what seemed a reasonable, if not rousing, closing speech by Corbyn, the sight of a large part of the audience doggedly stuck to their seats and refusing to applaud does not bode well for the future of the party. Or for that matter, the country, which desperately needs an effective opposition. With the Tories in almost as much disarray, the UK appears to be in some sort of free-fall. At home, Scottish Labour has shot itself in the foot so often there is nothing left below the knee except bloodied strands of gristle. What is wrong with the country?

Picture of childrens playhouse at the Hideaway Café
Kiddies playhouse

Perhaps it was summed up this week by Sam Allardyce walking off with £1m for a couple of months work as England manager. Instead of being booted out on his ear as he should have been. Yet another example, like the bankers, of the ‘success of failure’. As long as we continue to reward those who fail us the future will look decidedly unpredictable. Perhaps they should all hole up in that kiddies playhouse at the Hideaway Café for a while until they have sorted themselves out?

FK9 4EN      no telephone       Hideaway