We had stopped off in the township of Elphin, in the shadow of Stac Pollaidh, on our way to Ullapool because, after many miles of driving, there was a signpost for a tearoom .. but it was closed.
The local market was open however and the lovely people there recommended this place when we reached our destination. The Ceilidh Place bills itself as “at the end of the A835 and the centre of the universe”. It probably is for many people because it’s a hotel, bunkhouse, café/bar, music venue and bookshop. Someone once said “I often stay here because it’s the only bookshop I know with rooms”. 
Ullapool is a major destination for tourists and music lovers, with many festivals throughout the year.
Each September they have the Loopallu Festival (wonder how they came up with that name) which the Guardian said was “the only music event anywhere in the world to feature both Franz Ferdinand and the Ullapool Pipe Band.” As you might imagine there are not too many airs and graces here but everything is good quality, there is a big central log burning stove and they make you very welcome. What more could you want? 
You get the feeling that many good nights have been had in here. We had a good lunch then thought we would try the scones. When they arrived they did not look too promising. We have had scones that look like this before and they were decidedly underwhelming. However, looks can be deceptive. They were actually very good, nice light consistency and with plenty butter and jam. No cream unfortunately … pretty close to a topscone award, but not quite … pity. 
Tax havens
Ullapool and Panama have much in common .. they are both many miles from anywhere and both have infestations of blood sucking parasites, but in Ullapool’s case it’s only midges. The brouhaha about Cameron’s tax affairs is largely irrelevant. The fact that they all knew that tax havens (usually British ones) were being used on an industrial scale, is what matters. From that point of view the Labour party, in the shape of Gordon Brown should also have much to answer for. He devised a tax systems so complex that he was almost the only one who could understand them. Tax havens must have been very familiar. Anyway, besides all that, we notice that ‘Scotland The Best‘ author, Pete Irvine, notes amongst the 2,500 places listed, The Ceilidh Place as one of his favourites .. can’t be bad!
IV26 2TY tel: 01854 612103 The Ceilidh Place Ullapool
