Over the years, in all our travels around the UK, particularly around Scotland, we had completely missed the Black Isle. In spite of that evocative name. It is another one of these places that you have to make a conscious decision to go to. Although not an island as the name would suggest, it is a peninsula and in that sense a cul-de-sac. Particularly since the Nigg ferry ceased to operate last year. Obviously, it was high time this glaring omission was rectified but would we be disappointed? Not a bit of it .. it’s a lovely part of the world and one we will have to return to for further exploration.

As is the way with all cul-de-sacs, you eventually come to the end … but what an end! Cromarty is a wee gem, a lovely jumble of wonderful narrow streets and old fisherman’s cottages. Until 1890 the town was the capital of Cromartyshire. An entity we had never heard of until this visit … you live and learn. Living and learning was what Hugh Miller was all about. In 1802 he was born in one of these fisherman’s cottages and later trained as a stonemason. He had no academic qualifications but rose to become the leading geologist, thinker and social commentator of his time. He said ‘Life is itself a school and nature always a fresh study’. As you all know, sconology, rather than geology is our thing … but would we be able to further our studies in Cromarty?

There were several coffee shops, which all looked good, but we ended up here in The Pantry. It’s all homemaking and, according to it’s own publicity, has ‘the best meringues in the Highlands‘. With more than a little difficulty, we managed to resist the lure of the large meringues and decided to have their afternoon tea. Very reasonably priced at under £10 .. and featuring a scone and a small meringue. Two birds with one stone, so to speak. Everything was great and, being mergingue novices, for all we know it could have been the best meringue in the Highlands. It was certainly very good. The scone, however, was definitely the best we had tasted in quite a while and we had no problem awarding a topscone. Well done The Pantry.

Missed opportunities

The view is slightly incongruous when you look out from 18th century Cromarty towards the 21st century oil construction yard at Nigg. It stands like a monument to missed opportunities. Scotland being the only country in the world to have discovered over £300bn of oil and got food banks and three bits of dual-carriageway on the A9, in return. You can almost see Hugh Miller spinning.

Because of the negative effect on the Cromarty economy the demise of the Nigg ferry was much lamented by the lovely folk at the Pantry. There are rumours however that it may be reinstated … fingers crossed.

IV11 8XA            tel: 01381 600455              The Pantry Cromarty