Tag Archives: General Wade

Laggan a’ Bhainne

After our previous post from the Orient Express you might not be unduly surprised to hear that this post comes from Laggan a Bhainne (pronounced ‘Lagan a vanya’) in the wilds of the Scottish Highlands. It’s an indulgence on our part because it’s really about our family and its origins. The justification is that many of our readers across the world know our family to a greater or lesser degree and maybe curious to learn more. For those who don’t know the family there is a scone but one that is just a bit different. For those a bit short on the Gaelic language “laggan” means a little hollow in the hills and “bhainne”, means milk. “little dell of milk” in English. 

Uncle Johnny with his fog bosun
Uncle Johnny, known locally as Johnny Kyltra spend his entire working life as a deer stalker on Culachy Estate on the side of Loch Ness. He maintained that he saw the Monster. He was also fond of a dram or two … or three.
Drovers

We (the entire family) were tracing the origins of our “Uncle Johnny”  McDonald on my mother’s side. He was the last “man” born on the high Corrieyairack Pass. It rises to over 2,500 feet and Laggan a Bhainne is about half way up. Donald McDonald, lived here with his wife Catherine and their family of which Johnny was one. Donald was a shepherd and part of his duties involved ensuring that the drovers taking their cattle over the pass to the sales in Falkirk, didn’t linger too long and eat all the grass. Not an easy job.

After the Jacobite uprising in 1745, General Wade built a military road over it.  It linked garrisons in an effort to quell further unrest.  Around 1890 the Estate changed from sheep to the more profitable deer stalking. The family whose services were no longer required had to move down to the village of Fort Augustus.

Culachy House
Culachy House
VIPs

He lived for most of his working life at Kyltra on the outskirts of the village with Mary his housekeeper. The house had no water or electricity and it still doesn’t even today. Pat and I had the pleasure of visiting and were treated to boiled eggs … a meal reserved for VIP visitors. 

Kids in a truck
A 4×4 full of excited French, English and Scottish cousins

Getting  our family up to Laggan a Bhainne was no mean feat but  thanks to my brother’s remarkable ability to herd cats. it worked.

Convoy of 4x4s on way to Laggan a bhainne
Convoy of 4x4s with Loch Ness in the distance

It involved a 46 seater bus from Falkirk plus a fleet of all terrain vehicles to take us six miles up the Corrieyarrick. It was exciting to be travelling a route that our ancestors must have travelled on foot on many occasions. Because Laggan a Bhainne was very fertile it was used in the summer by the villagers of Fort Augustus who would bring their cattle up here in the summer. They would live in temporary houses made of turf. Our ancestors had a stone house because they lived here all year. It would have been a happy place though in the winter it must have been tough.  

Piper and family at Laggan a bhainne
Some of the family standing where the house used to be and listening to the emotive tunes of Spud the Piper

When they eventually moved out the Estate flattened the house to stop it being used by poachers. There are only a few stones left lying in the grass to mark the spot .

The sky

Johnny was a well know character and piper. A journalist once asked him how he felt about having to move down to the valley. Johnny turned towards the hills and said “as long as I can still see the sky over Laggan a Bhainne“.

Family at ancestral home
Me, my sister who came over from France with her family and my brother, wearing Johnny’s kilt standing in our ancestral home
The Somme
Johnny with his pipes outside Kyltra cottage
Johnny playing outside his home at Kyltra

Johnny’s McDonald tartan kilt has a few holes. We like to think they were caused by German bullets whizzing through while he stood there defiantly playing the pipes at the Somme. Moths, however, is another possible explanation.

What about the scones? Well for this post they are imaginary. Had we been here 150 years ago, our great grandmother would have been feeding us scones with homemade cream and jam. We imagine them to be topscones.

The bath

Aged 90 he was admitted to Raigmore Hospital in Inverness. A friend visiting him asked him how he was. He replied “they’ve given me a bath, I think it’ll be the end of me“. And so it was, he developed pneumonia and died there in 1972. I attended his funeral.

Commemorative plaque at Laggan a bhainne
We left a plaque at the site to indicate to others that people used to live here.

When you are here at Laggan a Bhainne the fact that someone beat someone else by seven thousands of a second at the Paris Olympics seems supremely unimportant.

A fantastic day, thanks to all at Culachy Estate for facilitating our visit.

///reveal.glows.dreaming

 

ps; The river that runs through Laggan a Bhainne is the Allt a Bhainne …  the river of milk. Allt a Bhainne We have a rare bottle of Allt a Bhainne  whisky. Only those who have actually been to Laggan a Bhainne qualify for a dram. Now there’s a challenge!Allt a bhaine whisky

 

Loch Ericht Hotel

What’s the coldest village in the UK? A clue, it’s well over 1000ft above sea level and has a mean annual temperature of 6.6 °C. One April it even managed to record a high of −1.0 °C for the month … brrrr!. Okay, we’ll tell you … it’s Dalwhinnie! What’s more, we’re here at the Loch Ericht hotel and it’s actually quite hot! The village also has a distillery.

View of Dalwhinnie distillery
Dalwhinnie distillery

We are here because we decided to take a slight detour off the A9, the road that runs from Falkirk to Scrabster in the far north. This section of the road was opened in the 1970s and had the effect of bypassing Dalwhinnie. At the time, many thought it would kill the village off completely.  Actually, back in our early days when we decided on the Cairngorms rather than Glencoe for our weekends we would pass through Dalwhinnie quite a lot. Back then there was only one road and it went straight through the village. Gosh, how old are we?

Crushing

It was a military road built by General Wade back in 1731 so that the English army could have better and quicker access to the Highlands. You know what those pesky Highlanders can be like! They thought the Highlands belonged to them and, of course, that sort of thing had to be discouraged at all costs. Wade is actually the only person named in the National Anthem:

Lord grant that Marshal Wade
May by thy mighty aid Victory bring.
May he sedition hush,
And like a torrent rush,
Rebellious Scots to crush.
God save the King!

Tumbleweed

We could easily have whizzed past but today we decided to see what affect the bypass had had on the village. We fully expected tumbleweed and the odd highland cow wandering about aimlessly on the road. Not a bit of it … it was buzzing!  The hotel doesn’t exactly scream out at you, in fact we struggled to find anything indicating it was a hotel at all.  There were lots of cars though and when we went into the restaurant area it was big and very busy.Internal view of the Loch Ericht Hotel

The folks behind the self service counter were very smiley and friendly. Soon we were kitted out with some lunch and a scone to share and went off to find a table. It was surprising that so many others had taken the trouble to come off the main road to visit the village. It has a distillery, did we mention that?

Must be love

Lunch was excellent and then we turned our attention to the scone. A scone at the Loch Ericht HotelThere wasn’t any cream but it did come with some nice Scottish jam and Irish butter. Pat normally takes the top half but this time she cut it the other way so I could have a bit of the top as well. Must be love! It was all very nice but what with it being self service it was never going to make topscone grade. Very enjoyable though.View of Dalwhinnie distillerySign for Dalwhinnie distillery

Fancy stories

When we were leaving Pat suddenly announced that she wanted to buy me a bottle of whisky at the distillery … hurrah! Did we mention that there was a distillery? Only a couple of hundred yards further on and we were there. From the outside it looked deserted but when we went inside it was heaving with people, you could hardly move!

They had a weird system where you actually had to retrieve a bottle from the display cases opposite the counter then take it to the counter to pay. Very confusing! No pricing, so suffice to say that the bottle Pat selected turned out to be £65. We left empty handed. Disappointing but I had to agree with her, that’s a lot to pay. No matter what fancy stories they tell on the label … it’s still just whisky! We are heading for Speyside so plenty more whisky buying opportunities to come … fingers crossed!Internal view of the Loch Ericht Hotel

Brilliant

One of the things about being away is that you don’t get as much news. These days that’s a good thing, as Sunak and  Truss battle it out, making ever more outlandish claims. One thing is for sure … neither of them give a toss about Scotland. Truss has even said that she plans to completely ignore Scotland and its government … brilliant! The population of Dalwhinnie is around 80. That’s just slightly less than the number of people who will decide who the next Prime Minister will be … brilliant again!

PH19 1AG         01528 522331        Loch Ericht Hotel

///presides.dude.gathering