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These are the best scones we have found so far.

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Victoria’s

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In our previous post from Fonab Castle we were bemoaning the fact that it was no longer family run. It’s difficult to put your finger on exactly what happens when an establishment goes from “family run” to a more corporate style … it’s just different, less personal. Today, however, we are still in beautiful Pitlochry but at Victoria’s restaurant. It proudly proclaims, loud and clear that it has been “family run” since 1996. Would we notice a difference?Sign for Victoria's Pitlochry

Established on the town’s Main Street and named after the family’s new born daughter you can work out how old she is now. In the low winter sun it’s not too impressive from the outside but in the summer its large al fresco dining area will be buzzing. Inside it has a warm homely feel with lots of Christmas decorations.Internal view of Victorias Pitlochry

According to Victoria’s website Luciano Pavarotti, once said “One of the very nice things about life is the way we must regularly stop whatever it is  we are doing and devote our attention to eating“. How true! We had just walked from Fonab Castle into town and now we felt the need to do exactly that. 

Christmas recipes

We were looked after by a young girl who was full of the joys. Turned out she was from South Africa. She and her husband had come to work here in Scotland for the next few years. A scone at Victorias PitlochryThey wanted some adventure before settling down to start a family. She informed us that her husband was responsible for making the scones. When they arrived they were accompanied by the usual little pots of jam and the biggest bowl of cream we have ever seen. Not clotted cream but pretty spectacular.  Everything was delicious. She asked us if we noticed anything different about the scones? We had but couldn’t quite identify what it was. Apparently her husband had added star anise to the recipe to make them taste more Christmasy. It worked, “Christmasy” was exactly how they tasted. Internal view of Victorias Pitlochry

Although busy attending to other customers our girl always came back to us for more chat. She even produced a map of Pitlochry and, with a felt tipped pen, marked places we should visit as well as the most picturesque route for us to take back to Fonab. This was service above and beyond which eventually persuaded us to award a topscone. Well done Victoria’s, “family run” is definitely better!

View over Loch Faskally
View across Loch Faskally
A flicker of light

At Fonab, we talked with a young Ukrainian girl who was working there. Eagle sculptureShe didn’t think her family were in immediate danger but the concern in her eyes was plain to see. With President Zelenskyy hinting at talks with Russia there appears to be a glimmer of hope for an end to the fighting. However, if Zelenskyy requires a cast iron guarantee that Putin can never return it is extremely difficult to see how that can be achieved.  But for the sake of our girl and her family, at least there may be a tiny flicker of light at the end of the tunnel. Fingers crossed!

Today there is also a memorial service in Edinburgh for Alex Salmond. Ten years ago he led Scotland to within a whisker of independence. Needless to say, none of the promises made to the people of Scotland at that time by the UK government have been delivered … not a single one! At least Salmond knew that independence had only been delayed.

Whisky messsges in Pitlochry
In a grocery store across from Victoria’s

PH16 5BX         tel: 01796 472 670           Victoria’s

///divides.disbelief.thanks

Scones, Top

Fonab Castle

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Breaking news bannerMost of our readers are aware that we regard the scones at Fonab Castle as the best in the world and the benchmark against which we judge all others. Our first visit was back in 2015 and we have been back several times since to check that standards were being maintained. That said, we haven’t been for a couple of years and in that time the hotel has come under new management. It used to be family owned but now it has been bought by an investment company that owns a chain of high end hotels. The transition from “family run” to a chain hotel can sometimes be problematic.

Internal view of Fonab Castle
Part of the “1892 on the Loch” restaurant looking across Loch Fascally towards Ben Vrackie. 1892 is when the castle was built.
Just checking

We decided to book in for a few nights. Of course, we wouldn’t be here unless we felt duty bound to ensure standards for our readers … honest! No really … honest!

The Lounge at Fonab Castle
The Lounge/Bar

If you are looking to get back to basics, however, this is probably not the place for you. A picture at Fonab CastlePampering, on the other hand is no problem and at this stage of our lives we seem to be able to tolerate pampering very well. We had a lovely swim and then par-boiled ourselves in one of their hot tubs. There were all sorts of other spa treatments available if you were in desperate need of further relaxation.  We opted to skip these and indulge in the ultimate relaxation … tea and scones.

However, it was with a degree of trepidation that we ordered a cream tea. Obviously, it would be disastrous if it failed the “best scone in the world” test. Our tried and tested benchmark that had lasted almost ten years would have gone.  It didn’t bear thinking about! Scones at Fonab CastleThe expectation was that we would each get two ideally sized scones presented in a lovely  linen napkin to keep them warm. They would be “melt in the mouth” and be accompanied with delicious jam and cream. Sadly, it was not to be.  Presentation was okay but not what it used to be. The scones were perfectly acceptable, in fact they were topscones but definitely not the best scones in the world. Attentive readers will remember that we once asked the Fonab chef for the secret ingredient in his scones. He simply replied “happiness in the kitchen.” Presumably the kitchen these days isn’t as happy as it used to be?

External view of Fonab Castle
Alternatives

Disappointed and slightly traumatised, we had to wrack our collective brains to think of an alternative. Not easy! We had become so used to thinking of Fonab as the be all and end all of scones that it was difficult to think outside of that particular box. Had we just become complacent over the years? However, a few worthy contenders immediately came to mind … Schloss Roxburgh and Mingary Castle as well as Lamlash House to name but three. We are spoiled for choice. 

Christmas decor at Fonab CastleLater, we had a delicious dinner followed by drinks in the bar chatting to some lovely people including a lovely family from North Carolina. They were keen to learn about Scottish history and whisky. Obviously, from an educational point of view, several  whiskies had to be sniffed, looked at and quaffed, followed by knowledgeable nods and hushed mmmms. They were on holiday so we didn’t burden them with our scone traumas.

PH16 5ND          tel: 01796 470140               Fonab Castle

///soup.material.newsreel

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Frieda’s Tearoom

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Logo of Frieda's TearoomWith all the roadworks going on outside Frieda’s tearoom it can’t be easy to keep the business going. Frieda, however, is not going to let something like that hold her back. She’s an enterprising lady and quick as a flash, she had us set up with a homemade parking permit that enabled us to leave the car at a special area alongside the tearoom.In the past  we have skirted round Bournemouth but this is the first time we have been “downtown” so to speak.  Frieda’s is tucked away on a side street away from the bustle of the seafront.Internal view of Frieda's Tearoom

As we said in our previous post from Dumpton, we are currently living in Poole looking after a couple of our granddaughters while their parents are away on business. It’s an exciting area. Apparently, a few years back a strange cat-like creature was spotted by a lady in Western Avenue. That’s virtually the next street to where we are living. It was identified as a kangaroo eating Tasmanian wolf which was officially declared extinct in 1986. Obviously a lack of kangaroos must have contributed to its demise. However, we’d like some of whatever that lady was on!Geraniums at Frieda's Tearoom

It’s only a half hour walk along the beach to Bournemouth but, since we didn’t have a specific destination in mind, we decided to drive. That’s why we needed Frieda’s parking permit. The tearoom is pleasantly old fashioned with lots of knickknacks accompanied by a background of 50s and 60s music by the likes of Pat Boone and  Patsy Cline

Tea bags

There was a fabulous array of large gateaus all made by Frieda herself. Cream tea at Frieda's TearoomShe explained that a “cream tea” came with two scones and either tea or coffee. Ideal, so that was our order plus one extra tea. As you might expect the china ware was “chintsy” and, of course, the tea came with a tea strainer. No fandangled teabags here! In contrast, however, the scones, were nicely presented on a modern square plate with matching dishes for the jam and cream. The scones, dusted with icing sugar, had plenty of fruit and were delicious. An easy topscone!

Double decker afternoon teas
Frieda's tea bus
COVID claims another victim

Several certificates on the wall were awards from Bournemouth Council for Frieda’s Tea Bus. She told us she used to have a double decker bus which she drove around the town serving afternoon teas. Told you she was enterprising. However, although very succesful, COVID killed the whole thing off. After a couple of years sitting doing nothing the bus refused to start and that was the end of it.

A teapot planter at Frieda's Tearoom
Teapot planter
Shining example

Anyway after we had finished our scone we were tempted by the gateaus and got a slice of Victoria sponge which was fabulous. Turns out that Frieda and her family moved here from Iran more than twenty years ago. The Iranians are famous for having a sweet tooth so maybe that’s why she decided to set up a tearoom. We can only speculate on the reasons for the move but modern day Iran must be a difficult place to live if you were used to the freedoms of the previous regime. The UK government currently sees immigration as a massive problem but thankfully the new government has abandoned the ridiculous and costly Rwanda scheme. We suspect  immigration is more of a convenient distraction from other problems they’d rather not talk about. In our opinion, Frieda is a shining example of the benefits of immmigration, more power to her elbow.Logo of Frieda's Tearoom

BH1 1JH         tel: 01202 291981           Frieda’s

///oath.cares.pulse

 

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Kirkhouse Inn

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After our previous post from Coffista in Leven we’ve gone west to Strathblane in the foothills of the Campsie Fells. However, if we had wanted to be here when the Kirkhouse Inn first opened its doors to guests we’d have been over four hundred years too late. Yes, this place opened in 1601 as a “tavern with stables” and has been welcoming people like us ever since. Back then, Elizabeth I was on the English throne and James VI was King of Scotland. As far as we know neither ever stayed here, however, this Inn was the scene of secret correspondence between the two monarchs which eventually led to the Union of the Crowns in 1603. So it’s all their fault.

View from the Campsie Fells
From high on the Campsie Fells, Strahblane’s Kirkhouse Inn is down there somewhere.

Just north of Glasgow, as a “tavern with stables” the Kirkhouse Inn was presumably a place for travellers to stop overnight and rest their horses. We were doing the same though for us it would be more of a “tavern with car park”. Nowadays it’s a hub for walkers doing the West Highland Way and the John Muir Way. They both pass nearby. The Campsie Fells form an impressive background to the hotel and on a gorgeous day, we had a beautiful drive through them to get here.  An overnight stay and an afternoon tea was what we were looking for!Internal view of the Kirkhouse Inn

It was good to see that the service seemed to be provided by mostly young local lads.  Afternoon tea at the Kirkhouse InnIn our experience, usually due to poor training, this can sometimes be problematic.  But not here, it was excellent. First they brought a plate of delicious savoury sandwiches. When they were finished three tiers of sweet things appeared and everything explained in detail. Lemon possets and macaroons on top. Meringues and chocolate dipped strawberries in the middle with scones and French fancies on the bottom. Unusually there was only one scone each. A good thing in our opinion. Normally you get two but inevitably, because you’ve just had a feast of sandwiches, you end up leaving one of them. The scones came with perfect little dishes of jam and cream and were just the way we like them. The right size, crunchy exterior with a soft fluffy centre … topscone.

Monarch of the glen at the Kirkhouse Inn
Another monarch, this one of the Glen

In 1601 the British East India Company was just starting its   plunder of India leading to almost a century of disastrous British rule. Regrettable perhaps but where would we be without curry? It doesn’t bear thinking about! Ironically perhaps, the young Sagar Massey, raised in Delhi, has launched his fine dining restaurant “Sanja” at the Kirkhouse Inn.

Picture in our room at the Kirkhouse Inn
The Chief Returning From Deer Stalking … another picture at the Kirkhouse Inn

It would be nice to think that we have progressed a wee bit since 1601, however, we have our doubts. As usual, land seems be the problem. Ukraine’s incursion into Russia is welcome but guaranteed to get right up mad Vlad’s nose. Israel’s murder of 40,000 people because a couple of thousand years ago some guy in the sky said the land belonged to them is beyond reason. In 1601 the area around the Kirkhouse Inn had to deal with MacGregor bandits  running off with their cattle under cover of darkness, In comparison with today’s problems it sounds positively romantic!Logo of the Kirkhouse Inn

G63 9AA           tel: 01360 771711              Kirkhouse Inn

///snail.uttering.kiosk

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Orient Express

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After our previous post from Café Sunart in the wilds of Scotaland’s west coast Pat said that she was looking forward to our next trip. Little did she know it was to be on the Orient Express. Today we are travelling from Venice to Paris in the grandeur and splendour of this magnificent train. On the way we pass through Verona before crossing over the Brenner Pass to Austria. Then on to Zurich before reaching Paris for the Olympics. All the while drinking champagne and being entertained by a chap playing the music of bored piano players in restaurants the world over. If you would like to get a sense of the journey in the western part of Italy just click here  Orient Express 15 480 

Okay, okay, you’ve probably guessed by now that this is too silly even for us. We’re actually in a restaurant in Edinburgh that serves afternoon tea and tries to replicate the Orient Express experience. They make a very good job of it!Internal view of the Orient Express Experience

Contrasts

It was back in 1883 that the first train left Paris on a seven day trip to Constantinople with just forty passengers.  It’s a journey I’ve done in reverse. In 1970 I had hitchhiked Falkirk to Istanbul over nine days. The return trip was by train. However, that experience was about as far away as it’s possible to get from this. There wasn’t even a buffet car, I had to rely on the generosity of my Turkish travelling companions who knew the ropes and had food and drink with them.

Afternoon tea at the Orient Express ExperienceNo such problems here. First we had to select our sandwiches from the sandwich menu and our champagne was served with a piece of strawberry delicately balanced on the rim of the glass. A three tier plate appeared with the sandwiches we had selected on the bottom, hot pastries in the middle and cakes on top. It was all delicious. As we  watched the vineyards slip by on the approach to Verona we were asked how we would like our scones … plain, fruit or cherry. We both opted for fruit. There was a tea menu and coffee on offer. We were almost in Milan when they asked if they could begin preparing our scones. This is how it should be done!A scone at the Orient Express Experience

Disembarkation

Our scone was accompanied with clotted cream, strawberry jam and bergamot curd. The bergamot curd was unusual … very tangy but delicious. Bergamot is supposed you help you relax … hardly necessary here. The scone wasn’t crunchy on the outside but was still fantastic. Eventually we had to disembark in Innsbruck because we had to get back for a BBQ in Falkirk courtesy of the Scotrail Express. The whole experience only cost us £25 each; great value and highly recommended!Internal view of the Orient Express Experience

Andy Murray has lost his doubles match at the Olympics and announced his retirement. We feel a sense of relief, pretty much the same as when Biden announced his. The modern Olympics is full of sports you only hear of at the Olympics … “race walking” and “quadruple skulls”, “BMX freestyle”, “surfing shortboard”, “golf”. Okay, we put that last one in just for badness but they all sound equally daft and a bit tiring! We’re fine where we are.Internal view of the Orient Express Experience

Queen Charlotte

This restaurant is in Queen Charlotte street. Queen Charlotte was born in Germany in 1744 and became queen of Great Britain and Ireland in 1761. She had fifteen children (two of them future monarchs) but that is not what she should be remembered for. No, she seems to have been responsible for the introduction of the Christmas tree. The first was at a children’s party at Windsor in 1800 … and we’ve all been mindlessly mimicking it ever since. What are we like?

EH6 7EX       Tel: 0131 555 6660          Orient Express

///fishery.object.people

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Mingary Castle

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After having all cobwebs unceremoniously removed at Arnamurchan Lighthouse we retraced our route back to Kilchoan and Mingary Castle. Returning on the same road (the only road) we felt the sheep looked even more indignant.

External view of Mingary Castle
Built in the 13th century as a MacDonald stronghold, Mingarry Castle, with its nine foot thick walls looks difficult to get into. That was the whole idea. One ship from the Spanish Armada laid siege to it for several days before giving up.
External view of Mingary Castle
From the seaward side it looks just as impenetrable (picture Mingary Castle)

First impressions of Mingary can be slightly off putting. There doesn’t seem to be any windows and you have to walk round to the western end to find a small door. Once through the door, however, you come in to an inner courtyard and everything changes.

Internal courtyard at Mingary Castle
The inner courtyard
How do they do it?

Sheltered from the wind it is warm and cosy in the summer sunshine. We were staying over in the MacDonald suite which ranged over two floors under the roof to the left of the above picture. This place is almost impossibly remote yet recently it has been showered with awards … AA Hotel of the Year, and chef/owner Colin Nicholson, Chef of the Year. Incredible!

Pat preparing for afternoon tea

We had to be careful. Dinner in the evening meant that we had to have our afternoon tea early enough not to spoil our appetite. Afternoon tea at Mingary CastleThese are the problems with which sconeys like us have to wrestle. The young girl  looking after us (she had a university degree in Gaelic) was fantastic. Firstly she brought us a delicious variety of sandwiches and later presented us with three tiers of goodies. Savouries on top, sweet things in the middle and fruit and plain scones on the bottom layer. All the while keeping us continuously supplied with fresh hot tea.  What about the scones? You can probably guess by now that they were absolutely perfect. Just the way we like them. Accordingly, an easy topscone and another serious competitor for Fonab Castle’s title of “best scone in the world”.

Battlements at Mingary Castle
View from the battlements towards the Sound of Mull
Battlements at Mingary Castle
Pat ready to repel invaders
The media

You do feel remote here and far away from the travails of the modern world.  It’s an extraordinary place. Reluctantly we looked at the news and discovered that the wall to wall coverage of Kamala Harris had been replaced by news of Janet Jackson’s upcoming tour. How fickle is the media? Which is more exciting … Kamala or Janet?

Tomorrow we head back home via the Corran ferry that brought us here. That will complete a little circular tour of this fantastic part of Scotland.

PH36 4LH          tel: 01972 614380             Mingary Castle

///isolating.reconnect.liberated

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Little Bespoke Bakery

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After our previous post from Saffron in Poole we are now about 600 miles further north at the Little Bespoke Bakery on the Isle of Mull. We did spend a couple of days at home before setting off again on this mini adventure which has been planned for some time. In Scotland at this time of year you really have to book accommodation well in advance. Tobermory was to be our first overnight stop but we were getting there by a slightly unusual route. A wee map might help.

Map of Ardour and Morvern
Corran ferry and Lochaline ferry on way to the Little Bespoke Bakery

First we drove to the Corran ferry. It takes you across a narrow strip of water to Ardgour and Morvern. It only takes five minutes and the alternative is a one hour drive. This is probably the most isolated and deserted part of Scotland. There’s a lot of what many people would describe as “nothing”, just hills and empty moors. But for us that’s the attraction. The scenery is amazing. Today, however, we were just driving through on our way south to another ferry at Lochaline. It was going to take us to Fishnish on the Isle of Mull and eventually, the Little Bespoke Bakery.Internal view of the Little Bespoke Bakery

Indignant sheep

This Bakery was not our intended destination but the route between the ferries was very much single track with passing places. Also lots of sheep that seem to enjoy just casually walking along the middle of the road, slightly indignant at our presence. Almost no traffic but by the time we had crossed over on the ferry and reached the village of Salen on Mull we were ready for a scone. A scone at the Little Bespoke BakeryIt’s a busy place with people coming and going all the time. In the toilet there was a sign saying “Oh, Hello Gorgeous” … no idea how they knew I would use the facilities!

They make all their own bread and a range of delicious looking cakes. However, they say a warm  welcome is their speciality and that is what we got. Our scone came with cream and jam and was deliciously fresh with a lovely texture. Maybe we were overexcited about being back on Mull but the decision was, topscone.

Eventually  we took our leave  and carried on our way to Tobermory via Calgary Bay.

Pat at Calgary Bay
Pat dipping her toe in the water at the Calgary Bay beach

The last time we were here there was a wedding on the beach. The wedding party waiting on the beach as the bride magnificently arrived by boat. Now, that’s the way to make an entrance.

The Oath

What have we missed in the news … the State Opening of Parliament. A pointless display of obscene wealth as Charles does an Andy Murray delivery of what “his” new government intends to do for us. While taking ‘the Oath’ one new MP announced he was doing so under protest. Swearing allegiance to the King but missing out the words “and his heirs and successors“. Eventually after various threats he had to say the whole thing. About time Westminster dragged itself into the 21st century.

Tobermory
Tobermory

Great to be back in Tobermory. In the evening we went to the Mishnish, a pub with many happy memories from previous visits. This was no exception as we befriended a lovely couple from Vienna. What are the chances? When we leave here it will be on yet another ferry.

PA72 6JE            tel: 01680 300200        Little Bespoke Bakery

///tomato.barstool.dogs

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Saffron

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A flower wall at Saffron
A flower wall at Saffron

We are still in Poole though technically we’re in Westbourne which, to us, just seems like part of Poole. The good people of Westbourne, however, would probably disagree.It has a slightly independent air about it. With both halves being in relative agreement our new fangled granddaughter GPS system worked well on this occasion. It took us directly to Westbourne Arcade. Pat had been here shopping the day before in Rose the Store and wanted to return to thank them for being so kind and helpful. Saffron was virtually next door.

Arcade where Saffron is
Wimborne Arcade built in 1884. Lots of shops and even a small 19 seat cinema
Numerals
Lola's Roman numerals
Roman numerals 1-1000

It’s run by a couple of high fliers. One worked as cabin crew with British Airways for many years and the other with Virgin Atlantic. With their big welcoming smiles their experience in hospitality was obvious right from the start. While our granddaughters rearranged the sugar pouches so that they were all the right way up one of them was talking about Roman numerals. Along with all the other nonsense that comes out of their mouths we thought nothing of it. Later however their parents showed us this picture which had been done at school, not as part of any kind of project but just because she “felt like it”. The original must have been about ten feet long. In vain, I desperately looked for a mistake. There had to be at least one, but no, every one correct. Sometimes kids can take you totally by surprise.

A scone and a baby chino at Saffron
Our scone complete with cream and jam plus a chocolate babychinno with marshmallows for the girls
Fresh

We also got almond croissants for the girls (don’t tell the parents) and were informed that Americans don’t know how to say ‘croissant’ properly. Apparently they say ‘croiSANT’. Our American readers should feel free to confirm or deny this dastardly rumour being put about by young British girls. We could easily tell that our scone had been baked just a few hours earlier, it was so fresh! An easy topscone. Internal view of Saffron

BH4 9AY     . tel: 01202 759587         Saffron FB

///into.tinsel.decks

We came to the end of our week in Poole wondering if we had done enough to entertain our granddaughters while their parents worked.  Maybe the trip to Tesco followed by another to Homebase hadn’t been enough? Farewell poemAfter a wee poetry session at bedtime the night before we were presented with this little note the following morning. It was the best week for us too. Now we just have the long drive back to Scotland.

Of course, with a Microsoft global IT outage you might never receive this post … you should be so lucky!

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Lamlash House

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Crest of Lamlash House

We’ve been trying to book an afternoon tea here in Lamlash House since what seems like forever. It’s always fully booked because they only do them once in a while. For example, the next one isn’t until 7th September.  Anyway, we managed to get booked so here we are in the lace manufacturing town of Newmilns in deepest Ayrshire.The hall at Lamlash House

Although lace manufacturing  has largely died out in the town MYB Textiles still carries on the tradition. Now, they are the world’s only producer still making patterned lace  on their 100 year old looms.

Banking To Banqueting
The Tannahill window at Lamlash House
One of several windows dedicated to Scotlands writers and poets. This one is to Robert Tannahill.

Lamlash House was built in 1889 for the Royal Bank of Scotland. It’s opulent Victorian interiors were obviously designed to impress but they are only evident today due to the monumental renovation undertaken by its current owners, Gordon and Jonathan. To begin with  they only had the upstairs but in 2014 when the bank decided to quit they acquired the downstairs as well. Years of intense restoration followed before they were able to open the doors again in 2019. And what a job they have done! The attention to detail is astonishing. It is like stepping back in time but with an air of playfulness replacing the rather stern solidity of the bank. Their years of toil have really paid off.Internal view of Lamlash House

Today they were celebrating a five year anniversary so everyone was presented with complimentary fizz on arrival. Our tea was served in what used to be the main banking hall;  now styled around Charles Rennie Macintosh. Afternoon tea at Lamlash HouseFrom the Leaf Tea and Infusion Menu  we chose the Lamlash House Signature Blend which was billed as the perfect accompaniment to scones … just what we needed!

The afternoon tea was a cornucopia of goodies from delicious sandwiches to citrusy posset with a raspberry on top. And fabulous scones, of course. All this combined with perfect service in beautiful surroundings made it a wonderful experience. Although not quite Pat’s birthday she was suitably serenaded and presented  with a cake complete with candle. This was an experience which could easily rival Fonab Castle and Schloss Roxburgh as our sconey benchmarks.Part of the garden at Lamlash House

Small but perfect

Afterwards we went out to the garden to finish off our bubbles in the sunshine. strongroom bar at Lamlash HouseAnd after that we went to what they think may be the smallest bar in Scotland – the Strongroom Bar. Obviously it used to be the walk-in safe for the bank and it features one which used to sit in the main banking hall where we had our afternoon tea. It’s great fun and, as expected,  beautifully reimagined as a bar.  However, it can only accommodate a couple of people so our cocktails were served next door in the Library. It’s not a lot bigger but is beautifully appointed and does have a couple of very comfortable easy chairs.

The Library at Lamlash House
Pat had a French Martini and mine was a Cosmo-Not. Served, of course, on £50 notes (napkins)

Lamlash house has a real family feel about it. No one seems to be in a rush. It was Jonathan’s mother that answered the door and it was her and her friends who were working in the kitchen. Long after afternoon tea was finished they still took delight in showing us around the premises and explaining the significance of some of the features and the difficulties experienced during renovations. Of course, they can only do this because they carefully manage the number of small weddings and other events they hold to keep stress levels to an absolute minimum … perfect!

Pat with Gordon and Jonathan
Gordon, Pat and Jonathan beside a vintage bicycle in the garden
Lock in

We have seldom enjoyed a visit as much as we did this one. It was an absolute pleasure. It seems a shame to sully it with political comment so we won’t.

Stained glass at Lamlash House
Flora, Roman Goddess of Flowers and the Season of Spring at the front door

Except to say that we missed the TV Leaders Debate between Sunak and Starmer which we referred to in our previous post from Stockbridge House. Of course, the media have been talking about nothing else so we almost feel as if we did actually see it. There was no mention of anything of  importance like the National Debt, Brexit or Scotland. Instead they just lied to each other and to us. With leadership like this we wish we could just lock ourselves in Lamlash House until it is all over … or even longer!

KA16 9AD         tel: 07912 874 600          Lamlash House

///racked.smashes.etchings

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Palmerston’s revisited

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Goodness, it’s over nine years since we last wrote about Palmerston’s, here in lovely Dunkeld. In the 9th century there was a union by marriage between the Scots and the Picts and King Kenneth MacAlpin made Dunkeld the capital of his new Scotland. The village is strategically placed at the entrance to a pass leading to the Highlands and sits on the north bank of the River Tay. In fact it is just upstream from Ballathie House where we were earlier this month. On the opposite bank of the river is the village of Birnam, made famous by Shakespeare for its mobile forest.  

A witch’s word

Apparently it put the jitters up the villainous Macbeth when he was informed that  Birnam Wood was moving towards his fortress at Dunsinane. After all, several witches had told him he was safe as long as that highly unlikely event ever came to pass … and who wouldn’t believe a witch? However, he was right to be jittery, oh yes! It was actually the English army that had cut down the branches and were using them to camouflage their stealthy approach. Suffice to say, Macbeth’s head ends up in a different place to the rest of him. Is that a suitable ending for a villain? That was way back in the 11th century and we don’t have villains like that any more … or do we?Scones at Palmerston's cafe Dunkeld

But before we go into that let’s look at something altogether more wholesome, Palmerston’s scones.  Nine years ago you will clearly remember that they were a little unusual. They were baked in a large round then cut into triangular quadrants. A scone at Palmerston's cafe DunkeldWell, they still are and they had four different types for us to choose from!  Somewhat unenterprisingly we decided on fruit scones, or sultana as it’s known in these parts.

They’re very friendly here. Straight off we were asked if we wanted butter and jam or cream and jam? Very sensible. We opted for cream and jam! When the scones arrived at our table, however we had cream, jam and two different types of butter. Not so sensible. As you know we’re partial to a crunchy exterior and a nice soft fluffy interior. These couldn’t be described in that way but nevertheless they were absolutely delicious with lots of big juicy sultanas … topscone!

Is that light at the end of the tunnel?

Let’s get back to villains! All in all it’s seems to have been a good day for us here in Dunkeld but a bad day for villains … hurrah! The International Criminal Court has issued arrest warrants for Benjamin Netanyahu and his associates. They’ve done the same for the Hamas resistance. However, there’s been a similar warrant for Putin’s arrest since 2023 so don’t expect these new warrants  to make a whole lot of difference any time soon. Perhaps more importantly Norway, Ireland and Spain have announced their intention to recognise Palestinian statehood … hurrah again! This is what is needed to get people talking seriously about a two state solution. Also, Paula Vennells, a priest but seen by many as a villain, starts her submission to the inquiry into the horrors of the Post Office Horizon scandal.

UK style democracy

Unfortunately this is also the week when Rishi Sunak labelled people who want Scotland to be an independent country again (that’s at least half the people of Scotland) as extremists. A danger to the UK. This, in spite of the fact that no-one in the 100 years or so of Scotland’s passionate bid to regain its self-respect has suffered so much as a nose-bleed. We thought Trump was pretty stupid among political figures but he may have competition. 
Jam at Palmerston's cafe Dunkeld

Perhaps more serious than all of that, the last time we were here Palmerston’s had just returned from the World Jam Championships with a bunch of prize certificates. Sadly we were informed that these Jampionshios, have been discontinued since the COVID pandemic. Happily you can still get their excellent jam here.Jampionship certificate 2014

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ps: What a day! Sunak has just announced a General Election for the 4th of July. Independence Day for some but probably not for Scotland.